Hot Springs National Park

We've been anticipating Hot Springs National Park for months, not because we thought it would be something amazing, but because we knew it would be the last park on this trip, number 57 (we'll be picking up the two we missed in Florida next spring on a separate trip with family, and the four offshore parks have yet to be scheduled).


We were also anxious to understand why this was a national park in the first place. Sure, hot springs are neat, but we already have a decent multi-million acre park that contains some of those (Yellowstone), so we were curious to understand what a 5,500 acre park in Arkansas had to add.

Not much, as it turns out.

Ok, I'll be fair. These hot springs are different than Yellowstone's. These are not created by volcanic activity. Volcanic hot springs aren't all that uncommon, but it turns out that non-volcanic hot springs are pretty rare. I'll spare you the mechanics that create these springs, but the point is that they are unique.

They were also all capped and/or tapped a hundred years ago to serve the bathhouses in the town of the same name. So this isn't a "get out in nature for a hike" park. This is a "stroll down main street and learn about the history of the bathhouses" park.

Oh, and there are no hot tubs or pools in which to experience the springs. We all just assumed there would be at a park with "hot springs" in the name, but no. That was the source of immense disappointment when we looked it up the night before (we plan these things at the last minute).

The only place to experience the springs is at one of the two bathhouses that are still operating. And you'll experience it in a personal clawfoot tub, not in a pool, paying dearly for the privilege. It's basically a spa whose water happens to be spring water heated by the earth. No thanks.

One of the few springs that is exposed (as opposed to being capped and piped somewhere)

We were disappointed for multiple reasons, not the least of which was that it was very chilly the day we went to the park. We could have used a good soak in a hot bath!


We ended up spending most of our time in the visitors center, which was a preserved bathhouse. We were able to see what the bathhouses looked like back in their heyday.

We also drove the scenic drive up Hot Springs Mountain. I use both "scenic drive" and "mountain" loosely here. After coming back from the American West and Alaska, I'd hesitate to call this a "mountain," but I suppose it's all relative. There is a tower at the top with an observation deck, but we elected not to pay for the privilege of seeing Arkansas from on high.

Park aside, Hot Springs the town is a little touristy place, and we enjoyed visiting candy and soft serve shops. We also picked up some free spring water. As part of the agreement under which the government operates the park, they have to provide free water to anyone who wants it, the only restriction being you can't resell it. There are multiple taps in town of various springs. We visited a hot tap with 4,500 year old water and a cold tap with 20 year old water. The latter didn't impress me. I guess I like my water aged.

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